Dan Berger’s Weekly Wine Commentary, September 5,
The most difficult wine of the latest BD offerings to rate, this
superb wine is for those who understand the distinctive herbal
nature of the grape, with its wild, rustic/earthy tones. Phenomenal
balance, with tannin for aging, but it also has fascinating fruit
and a soil note!
This is still an exceptionally young vineyard, but a very cool
one (in every possible sense). Cool as in the Blues, or at least
blue fruits: blueberry, blackberry and Damson plum. Cool as in a
touch of Funk (Miles Davis and George Clinton would have loved this
wine) but in a very good way. The wine is a field blend of diverse
clones, which really enhances the complexity of the wine. In the
cellar, it is subjected to a reductive élevage, a practice
that allows for the development of extremely sophisticated earth
and animal tones in the finished wine. This wine will work
exceptionally well with anything that has been spit-roasted, viz.
lamb, spare ribs. Syrah’s earthy soulfulness seems to complement
fattier cuts of meats—beef or lamb cheeks, for example, that have
been cooked slowly, a daube de boeuf, f’rinstance.
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