Contra Costa County
Optimal Drinkability: 2018-2025
2014 Old Telegram
2016 February DEWN Release
$45.00 per bottle / $486.00 per case
$38.25 per bottle / $432.00 per case (Members)
The first thing one observes about this wine is the preternatural depth of its color – saturated mulberry. From the nose, one scents licorice, blood(!) (make that very rare meat), blackberries, wet earth. On the palate, the tannins are very plush and soft, almost a sense of sweetness (emphatically no R.S. in this), but with a really vibrant acidity and very great length.
My brilliant friend, Sean Thackrey and I disagree about many things, but I greatly admire his wines, and am indebted to him for his wine scholarship. He has learned that it has been the historical practice to let wine grapes “rest” for several days before crushing. Independent of whatever explanatory mechanism one might wish to propose for the salutary effect of this activity, it is still a common practice in the Veneto for red grapes. In its most extreme instance, one arrives at Amarone, but I’ve found that even a relatively short period (3-4 days) of indoor air-drying results in a certain degree of concentration of flavor, sugar, and most significantly, a transformation of the stems of the clusters from green to brown, with the disappearance of green, stemmy flavors.
We somehow skirted the peril of over-ripeness and raisination.
Food Pairing Notes
It’s all about big Mediterranean flavors! Beef ribs, pork shoulder, lamb, rabbit, or goat with the classic French accents of lavender, rosemary, and thyme. Mourvèdre also pairs surprisingly well with wild rice, Asian mushrooms, and soy sauce.